Quintessential German BacharachOur first stop in Germany after leaving the Frankfurt Airport was Bacharach. We selected Bacharach for our pre-tour stop because it seemed like the quintessential German town spreading out long and lean between surrounding woods and the meandering Rhine River. We also selected it because the name was memorable, reminding us of American troubadour Burt Bacharach. The small and relaxing town provided plenty of German charm. We kicked up our feet cruising past half a dozen castles on a Rhine River boat, strolled the cobbled streets past plaster and timber buildings, ate local treats like Riesling marinated pork and spaetzle, tasted local valley wines, and hiked to the top of the hillside for breathtaking views of Bacharach and nearby towns. It was the perfect way to kick off our travels in Germany, Austria and Switzerland!
Our favorite thing: Feeling like we were stepping back in time with the local establishments, beautiful buildings and friendly people. |
Cruising for CastlesBacharach and its nearby neighbors were built on taxation - each city had its own castle and towers, so that they could stop passing ships and collect a toll. While this was probably a pain for German merchants of old, it is a major gain for visitors today, who can see about a dozen castles within a few mile stretch along the Rhine River. We took a boat to St. Goar eight miles up river, passing six castles along the way, each with their own unique history. One castle was shaped like a ship and centered in the river, while another is owned by a Japanese businessman who doesn't know what to do with it. On our return journey, a group of about 10 older German women spontaneously broke into song. We soon learned that they were singing "The Ballad of the Loreley," a traditional song dedicated to the most famous cliff along the Rhine. This cliff, said to resemble a beautiful woman's hair, distracted sailors leading to their demise. Luckily, the crew on our ship wasn't distracted and we made it safely back.
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Painting the Town in BacharachOne can imagine that life in Bacharach (and the town itself) haven't change substantially in hundreds of years. The restaurants we ate at, including the Posthof Bacharach and Stuber Restaurant, were locally owned and served regional dishes. Slate roofs slanted steeply over timber and plaster facades and flower boxes hung beneath each window on hotels, stores and houses alike. We really enjoyed meeting people who had lived in Bacharach their whole lives, including our efficient hotel owner Ute, and a shopkeeper who hand-painted small wooden Christmas ornaments that we brought home as souvenirs for family and friends.
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Our First Taste of Germany (or an Ode to Spaetzle)
Visiting the land of pretzels,
Who'd have thought I'd try some spaetzle?
My taste buds dance with sheer delight.
I'm eating faster than polite.
For tiny, bird-shaped balls of dough,
A passion soon begins to grow.
At night, when I lay down to sleep,
Into my dreams those dumplings creep.
My spaetzle needs can't be repressed.
I must admit that I'm possessed.
I try to stem my constant cravings,
That keep my zealous taste buds raving.
Although my feelings are conflicted,
I now suspect I am addicted.
Who'd have thought I'd try some spaetzle?
My taste buds dance with sheer delight.
I'm eating faster than polite.
For tiny, bird-shaped balls of dough,
A passion soon begins to grow.
At night, when I lay down to sleep,
Into my dreams those dumplings creep.
My spaetzle needs can't be repressed.
I must admit that I'm possessed.
I try to stem my constant cravings,
That keep my zealous taste buds raving.
Although my feelings are conflicted,
I now suspect I am addicted.
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Wine Before BeerWe were a little nervous about drink options on our Germany, Austria and Switzerland trip, because most of our family are not big beer drinkers. So we were pleasantly surprised to learn that much of Western Germany is home to vineyards that grow sweet white wine, the preferred local drink. Bacharach is a small and quiet town, and the main nighttime activity is wine tasting in the cool courtyards of a handful of local establishments. The waitress at Weingut Kurt Heidrich showed her skepticism for American drinking ability by insisting that Jody, Elyse and Jill would be safest splitting a flight of six white wines. While honorary sommelier Justin read descriptions of each wine, the girls rearranged the glasses to rank their favorites. They also got some input from a couple from Reading, England, who were traveling Europe in a camper.
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Morning Hike on the Romantic RhineOne of the wonderful things about our trip through Germany, Austria and Switzerland was the opportunity to hike in diverse and spectacular locations, including the Swiss Alps, Austria's Lake District, and Munich's English Garden. While the others walked through town, Elyse and Justin took an early morning hike through the steep vineyards overlooking Bacharach, stopping at Stahleck Castle. The views of the towns that dot the edges of the Rhine were extraordinary and it was fun to climb through castles and towers built hundreds of years ago. We got an up close view of just how steep the rows of grapes growing along the Rhine are. We also supplemented our breakfast by eating dozens of wild blackberries that grew along the trail. (And we were particularly thankful to find that we had correctly identified the blackberries and had not accidentally poisoned ourselves.)
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