Relaxing in Ritzy Baden-BadenBaden-Baden is really about three major things: its restoring thermal baths, its historic casino, and watching our Heidebloem bus driver Jos try to back a full tour bus up a single lane cobblestone street. After the charm of Bacharach and the history of Trier, Baden-Baden was a great place to relax and see an unexpected side of the German people: their love of nude bathing. Baden-Baden's name literally translates to "Bath-Bath" and we found that the extent to which our fellow tour group members enjoyed the city directly related to how traditional the bath they went to was. Baden-Baden was once a vacation hotspot for European royals, like Austrian Queen Maria Theresa. Today, Russian oligarchs and UEA oil barons still visit Baden-Baden to "take the waters" at its natural thermal baths and (more practically) visit their physician. It also gave us a chance to get out of our comfort zones by placing our bets at the casino or bathing like the Germans.
Our favorite thing: A nice, hot, relaxing, "textile-free" bath |
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A Safe Bet: Taking A Casino TourBaden-Baden's casino is nothing like those you'd see in Las Vegas or Atlantic City. It is much smaller in scale, yet richer in history. When we first arrived in Baden-Baden, we got a chance to go on a guided casino tour. Before noon, the casino is not open for gambling and we were able to check out the tables up close and even take some photos. The casino was once frequented by Europe's royals, particularly during periods of time when gambling was illegal in their home countries. Austrian Queen Maria Theresa, whose statues were all over Vienna, and her daughter Marie Antoinette were frequent casino patrons. The rich history of royal gamblers was reflected in the casino's opulent decor, including red velvet wall coverings and frescos on the ceilings. (I guess it needed to feel like home away from home for those living in Versailles.) Baden-Baden's main game is roulette and one of the most fun features was a roulette wheel topped with ponies in honor of Baden-Baden's annual horse race.
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Making a Splash Around TownFun was the buzzword in Baden-Baden and we really enjoyed simply walking the city's traffic-free streets and watching wealthy Europeans go shopping with their fancy dogs in tow. We got to live as temporary locals having Black Forest ham sandwiches from a butcher shop while sitting on a park bench. We also enjoyed traditional German cake time by having a late afternoon slice of Black Forest cake before walking along the river promenade on the outskirts of town. The following morning, we woke up early to enjoy a cup of coffee before boarding the bus and got three of our favorite photos of the trip: Jos backing the full-size Heidebloem tour bus along the narrow cobblestone street, seeing where Baden-Baden hides its dirty secrets as a trash can rose from a seemingly ordinary stretch of pavement, and Jill and Elyse posing faux au naturel behind a "We Heart Baden-Baden" sign. Jill and Elyse were particularly pleased when, while posing for the last photo, they got a comment from a passerby saying "That's really very clever!"
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Getting Out of Your Comfort Zone: Jill & A Tale of Two BathsGrowing up in the Age of Aquarius did not prepare me for the idea of partaking in the textile free Friedrichsbad Irish-Roman baths in Baden Baden. I had watched Rick Steves’ DVD and read the Germany Tour Book promoting the idea but I had no intention of visiting the baths when I left West Virginia for this trip. However, Donald being the great tour guide and facilitator encouraged all of us to go out of comfort zones. On the bus ride into Baden Baden, my niece and I decided that we were up for the challenge. The only stipulation was that none of the men in our family would be there at the same time. We did not want to see them in mixed gender areas. Fortunately, Lex and Justin took an afternoon break to eat Black Forest Cake (#1 of 3) to delay Justin’s arrival at the baths. You know “when in the Irish Roman baths, do as the Romans did.” What a great decision. We loved it. The saunas and steam rooms were a “little” warm but it was fun seeing the “grill marks” on our backsides from the teak lounges. The stiff brush soap scrub and massage from the somewhat surly German attendants felt good but being swaddled in warm sheets to lounge (and maybe nap) in the relaxation room was wonderful.
At the end of 3 plus hours and 17 steps, we felt like spätzle. However, the best part was trying something new and foreign and enjoying it so much. I wonder if there are any Roman baths in West Virginia? |
Crowds of Croupiers & Oodles of PoodlesEmbracing Baden-Baden's reputation as a nighttime playground, we went for a late dinner near the casino and then went inside to place a few bets. While none of us are experienced gamblers (nor do we even really know the rules of roulette), it was fun soaking up the atmosphere. We watched lines of tuxedoed croupiers march out to man the roulette wheels and poker tables, and saw some gamblers win big only to lose all their chips a few moments later. We found our true calling in a slot machine game called "Oodles of Poodles," which we can only assume was a favorite of Marie Antoinette. After nearly an hour of gambling, we walked away down only 2.15 euros - a big win for us!
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