Munich: Beer & Bretzels in BavariaMunich is one fun-loving city, teaming with shaded outdoor beer gardens and cafes where thousands of Munchners congregate for bratwurst, bretzels and cakes. We got to go to Munich's beer museum and the famous Hofbrauhaus, but our favorite stops were eating white sausages at the massive Viktualienmarkt beer garden, sipping lattes at Luigi Tambosi while German bocce ball matches went on, and strolling through the English Garden to watch Munich's superb surfers. We also loved the whimsical glockenspiel (pictured at left), which marks the hour by celebrating Munich's history with a display of jousting knights, dancing maidens, and twirling barrel makers.
Our favorite thing: lunch in the beer garden surrounded by thousands of Munchners |
Livin' Like a MunchnerOur tour guide Donald oriented us to Munich by marching us a few blocks from the hotel to the famous Viktualienmarkt (or as Elyse kept calling it the "Virtual Alien Market"). The maypole in the center of the market could be seen from far away and helped us find our way back to the hotel from almost anywhere. The next day, we set off from the same spot with local guide Franz for a look at the diversity Munich has to offer. A quick stop in the beer museum reminded us of the importance of beer as a safe source of hydration in days before clean water and a calorie supplement when food was scarce. Even the monks drank about half a gallon per day! We also saw some sobering reminders of where Hitler rose to power including Viscardigasse where Hitler's first unsuccessful coup was put down and a trail of golden stones showing where anti-Nazi Munchners had walked to avoid heiling Hitler. We visited St. Michael's, a beautiful Italian baroque church; Frauenkirche, the home church of Pope Benedict XVI; and the all-important Michael Jackson Memorial, erected by local fans. Franz had it perfectly timed so we arrived in Mariensplatz just before Munich's famous glockenspiel (a dancing clock tower) kicked into motion. After the tour, we absolutely loved circling back to the Viktualienmarkt beer garden. We sat shoulder to shoulder with thousands of Munchners congregated around us and enjoyed some weisswurst (white sausages), bretzels, and weissbier (the only appropriate beer to drink before noon).
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It's All About the BeerAccording to Jimmy Buffett, It's Five O'Clock Somewhere and nowhere is that statement more true than in the capital of Bavaria. Munich's blue and white striped maypole bears the logos of the seven chosen breweries that peddle their wares within the city limits. Upon our arrival, we ventured out on a walking tour of the city and stopped by for a nip of history at the beer museum. Our local guide, Franz, gave us the low down on the sixteen day festival known as Octoberfest. Franz sold us on the idea of the Beer Garden, which is essentially a huge party where friends and family gather together to share conversation and maybe a few beers. Stopping by the following day, we seated ourselves at one of the long tables and enjoyed local beer and Donald's recommended white sausages with sweet mustard. A trip to Munich would not be complete without a trip to the legendary Hofbrauhaus. Arriving early in the morning, we avoided the crowds (except one weaving gentleman who must have been a leftover from the night before). The bar glowed in the morning light and there were shelves and shelves of heavy glass mugs waiting for that day's customers to arrive. There is a privileged group at the Hofbrauhaus who have tables reserved for them and the elite who have their own mug lockers.
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The Royal ResidenzThe palatial home of the Wittelsbach family is a combination of royal residence and museum. Touring the Residenz, one gets an inkling as to what daily life was like for the rulers of Bavaria. In the royal dining room (The Antiquarium) you could imagine the Wittelsbach's spending an elaborate evening entertaining foreign diplomats, while just down the hallway you could imagine them worshiping daily in their private chapel. The children could have fun racing down the Ancestor's Gallery while under the watchful eye of more than a hundred portraits of relatives from a bygone era. The most interesting part of the tour was the Treasure House, home to the booty collected over the centuries by the Wittelsbachs. The sparkling crown jewels are here, as well as elaborately designed reliquaries and make-up kits fit for a queen, which I suppose they were. A fascinating part of the collection was the overabundance of drinking games. Apparently animatronic drinking vessels were quite the rage, sort of the beer pong of the day.
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Dessert with Table Side EntertainmentHaving learned our lesson in Trier, we took advantage of afternoon cake time at Luigi Tambosi. Selecting a table at the edge of the tree canopied courtyard, a party was sent to order refreshments. With a limited command of the German language, the bill of fare seemed a bit confusing. The plan was to point, mumble a bit and pray on the graciousness of the staff. Requesting coffee and brownie, we did okay. However, when we called the delicious apple confection apple struedel, we were busted. The server informed us in no uncertain terms that this was apple CAKE, not strudel. Devouring our afternoon cake, we noticed the bocci courts near our table. This was a game that was taken seriously. Not only could you witness the strategy involved in playing the game, but the participants had special cloths to clean off the ball between tosses.
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A Most Peculiar English GardenWe were looking at a map of Munich and noticed that a big chunk of the the city's northeast corner was covered by a green square labeled "Englischer Garten." Naturally, we were intrigued by the concept of a garden even "Englischer" than those we'd seen in the United Kingdom. We weren't disappointed. Munich's largest central park is perhaps the most peculiar, surprising and delightful park we've ever visited. The park is bisected by the freezing Isar River, whose currents are modulated by a large dam. We got to watch surfers shred the river near the dam where currents are exceptionally strong. It's not for the faint of heart or even for amateur surfers. Downstream, sunbathers would jump in the chilly waters to cool off, but we settled for just sticking in our toes. A massive beer garden, sweaty bike riders, and even nude sun bathers (not pictured) also populated the park. Strolling through the park was an unexpected and entertaining experience - a chance to see real Munchners having fun on a sunny day.
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